Hi Guys,
I have few news:
1) I am currently preparing the material (videos, pics...) for the crowd-sourcing.
2) As Kickstarter is just available for US based person, I will be using http://www.indiegogo.com
I will send the link as soon I prepare the project. Within 2 weeks.
3) I already have an idea about when the kits will be available - I believe I will need 4-6 months after funding to complete the project. This means by end of this year but the plans will be released before that.
4) The crowd-funding money will be used for:
a) Improve and reduce the cost of the resins
b) Improve software
c) Improve and reduce the cost of electronics
d) Create molds for the injected parts (reduce the cost and avoid CNC work at home - some people may do it by themselves)
I hope we can create huge 3D Printer community and bring this technology to everyone...
BTW, I can't stop printing... you get addicted when you start printing.... :-)
I will post some pics tomorrow..
Cheers,
Junior
Yes!
ReplyDeleteSounds good, I've dropped all other hobbies to learn Blender3D modeling....this will be fun.
ReplyDeleteVery nice indeed! Did you contacted the people at reprap.org? There is some guys over there working on uv cured resins as well, and its a huge 3d printing community. I'm pretty sure there are tons of people who would be interested in contribute to this project.
ReplyDeleteAlso, there is a lot of software already written to do z-slicing. It would be pretty simple to add a new plugin to skeinforge, for example, to support your printer type.
I'm a VFX Film industry R&D guy with a few years of renderman coding on my back, and I'm also really interested in do some renderman-based z-slicing, using per-pixel displacement, procedural geometry creation, etc. Not to mention the potential of develop a renderman compliant 3d printer software that would be able to print the same source files used to render in renderman... that would be really cool and a lot of commercial potential to the film industry, in my opnion! Not to mention the potential to the stop motion industry.
by the way, any chance you can share you monomer recipe? I got a huxley reprap working and I'm printing a Prusa Z-axis to get a similar setup as yours working. I'm going to try this recipe for the free-radicals based monomer:
98 ml Poly(ethylene glycol) diacrylate CAS 26570-48-9
2 g Phenylbis (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide (Irgacure 819) CAS 162881-26-7
0.02 g Sudan I CAS 842-07-9
is yours similar to this one, by any chance? if so, have you experimented with different dye compounds to get different colors?
anyhow, really cool project! FUDIDO DEMAIS Junior! (sim, sou Brasa tbem... vivo no Canada, mas ainda sou Brasa!)
cheers and Grande Abraco!!
-H
Hello Junior
ReplyDeleteWhat a fantastic project. I live in Australia and have built 2 Rapmans and am ordering an Ultimaker. I can't wait for the opportunity to build one of these. Will we be able to use the STL models from Thingiverse?
Cheers
I am interested in helping to improve the software, will publish the source code to help with development?
ReplyDeleteThe software would be simple:
1 .- Addressing the STL file.
2 .- Remove the layers through the resolution.
3 .- Display image in the projector, for X seconds.
4 .- When the resin has cured, displaying black image
5 .- Upload the Y axis, and display the next image
The process is correct?
Thanks
Hello Junior
ReplyDeleteI´m a scale model maker and this is like a dream for me. I relly want one of this printers. I rally would love to see one of my models printed by you. Can I provide you a small model for a test? If so, how can I contact you?
Thanks
Wonderful! If you can provide the plan before releasing kits as you noted, that would be great too! Man, this is very serious. I'm working in product design so this is going to be "dream comes trueeee!!"
ReplyDeletehi junior,
ReplyDeleteI have access to a cnc,I a have access to a cnc machine in my school and i dont mind doing the work for free, the only thing you have to pay for is probably shipping (from chicago 60616) and maybe material. (i could probably find some material for free, depending what you want as your material) available materials are birch plywood and MDF in 1/8", 1/4" ,1/2" ,3/4". Acrylic sheet in various thicknesses from 1/32" to 2" (acrylic can be expensive). Im not sure how big a mold you need to make, but contact me if you think i can help you.
BTW just to get a sense of shipping cost, USPS has a flat rate box 12" by 12" by 5" with maximum weight of 20 LBs and it cost US$60.
ReplyDeletehi junior
ReplyDeleteplease mail to me ,there're something important to discuss ,thanks
gavinluo1985@gmail.com
Hi Junior,
ReplyDeleteI'm wondering about the price of the polimer, monomer and dye. Someting about 150USD to produce 10g. How much material do you spend for each piece printed, +or-?
I'm also investigating this, Rogerio. From what I could get based on a modified recipe of the original monomer recipe from the paper "Three-Dimensional Printing Using a Photoinitiated Polymer", It would cost around USD 250,00 to produce 500ml of polimer, according to prices from Sigma-Aldrich (buying from a chinese supplier would probably decrease this cost considerably). Not too bad at all!
ReplyDeleteThis is the recipe I'm based on:
98 ml Poly(ethylene glycol) diacrylate CAS 26570-48-9
2 g Phenylbis (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide (Irgacure 819) CAS 162881-26-7
0.02 g Sudan I CAS 842-07-9
It would be nice to know from Junior what is the ml/cm3 relation so we can have an idea of the cost to print a cm3.
Another thing that came to mind... Would be interesting to see the actual resistant of the final printed material. Would it be compared to ABS or PLA printed on an normal REPRAP?? do you think the final print would be though enough to actually be used as a part in another reprap machine?
ReplyDeleteBetter saying... can it replicate itself, like a reprap? ;)
-H
This is great news!! i am ready!! get that indiegogo page running!
ReplyDeleteHradec,
ReplyDeleteDid you find other supplier than Sigma-Aldrich? In my country the price for 500ml will be significantly higher. I have no ideia about the strongest of the material. At the moment the price of the material is the limitation of this method.
I did find some suppliers in china, but I'm still waiting for prices.
ReplyDeleteI'm also contacting other companies who sell these type of resins to see if we can find an off-the-shelf alternative. So far I did find some interesting options, but still waiting the companies to get back to me regarding technical questions like cure time and price.
The surfboard maker market is really interesting. Theres a huge selection of UV Cured products for surfboad confection and I did find a couple of companies who do have quick cure products, that can be cured in 3 seconds, being the thickness of the layer even higher than the one required.
The problem on those products I think is the viscosity. Would be nice to get someone who nows a bit about chemistry to understand if its possible to decrease the viscosity of a resin by adding some other compound that would not change the curing characteristics of it.
I did contact those companies asking this exact question, but did not heard from then yet!
I'll keep you guys informed. :)
-H
PS: Rogerio, se e brasa tbem ne? rss
This is by far the most advanced home made printer I have seen yet. I am really looking forward to helping fund the project, and I look forward even MORE to being able to build one of these! I hope you look into the possibility of resins that contain wax for lost wax casting. I am a jeweller and having one of these that I can cast from would be the best thing EVER!
ReplyDeleteBest of luck with the project- I have high hopes for the future of 3D printing.
ReplyDeleteHi Guys,
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for the support and comments.
I will try to answer some questions:
1) Hi Hradec, brigadao!!, don't try this recipe, does not work for bottom-up approach and the result is very fragile. Abracao, Jr
2)Hi Michael, yes, you can print any STL file, including the ones from Thingiverse. There are hundred places that you can download STL from internet... and you can buy some nice ones also.
3)Hi Lord Mannu, please add your e-mail on the comment and I will contact you.
4)Hi Carlos, the software is bit more complicated than this, but in high level you are right.
5) Thanks aak!!! I will let you know if I need some help, cheers
Cheers,
Junior
Hi Rogério,
ReplyDeleteThe printer is quite economic, you can print hollow objects with 1.5mm wall thickness. For example I spend less than 60ml to print the alien skull.
Don't try the recipe with PEG, is too fragile... I already did and just wasted money.
Cheers,
Junior
Hi Junior, wonderful project.
ReplyDeletePlease, add me my mail is
solopergioco1@virgilio.it
As I wrote, I'm a 3d modeller so if you need (for free and for give something in exchange) I'm available
Hi Junior.
ReplyDeleteMy e mail is mannuapocrifo (at) gmail.com
Keep the good work!
Hi, junior
ReplyDeleteI will be in indonesia in middle of may, i was thinking of dropping by singapore as well( i used to study there for a number of years and still have alot of friends which i havent seen in a couple of years). With a little bit of planning you could save the shipping cost and have it hand delivered by myself.
Hi Junior,
ReplyDeleteThis seems like such an amazing project you're working on! Words cannot describe! I'm an ME with a some free time on my hands and I'd love to help you out if you need it (no charge.. in case it's not implied).
I've got a decent amount of experience pertaining to many aspects of product development: research, design, engineering documentation, production/mfg, IP and business type stuff. If you'd like my help with anything just let me know - my email is ericrobertyoung *at* gmail.com
Forgot to mention - I may be able to get an EE from my office to help on the circuits as well.
ReplyDeleteHi Junior,
ReplyDeleteI have a professional grade CNC machine if you require anything to be done just send a dxf. Cheers!
How many cost the material for print the alien skull ? thx
ReplyDeletebtw Junior, please add my e-mail address too. I can provide info for machined metals supplier from both Japan and U.S. And if you need some help with solid cad modeling, I can help it out too. mine is lvglvglvg@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteGood to known about the PEG recipe... any substitute for PEG you recommend? would the Hexanediol dicrylate work better then, you think?
ReplyDeleteDo you have any idea what the aprox target price for the resin would be?
ReplyDeleteJunior,
ReplyDeletePlease contact me at bruce.gettel@gmail.com. I'd like to know how you're funding this - perhaps I can contribute a little something.
Thanks.
Bruce
I'd love to help you with this project.
ReplyDeleteI'm a mechanical engineer with lots of experience in CAD, precision mechanism design, and additive manufacturing.
Please contact me at chmieke *at* gmail.com.
Thanks!
Hi,
ReplyDeleteit look like this project is really gathering speed! I discovered the En**tech printer one year ago and was really impressed by the accuracy of the printed models. I run a small engineering business and have acces to CAD and CNC. Concerning resins there are loads of suppliers of resins for SLA. If anybody has acces to chemical analisys (like Spectroscopy), i can send some samples of resine used on the E***tech machines. There range also includes a wax filled resine for investment casting. Is it possible to donate from Europe?
As a mechanical designer and DIYer i would be really please to help. How can i help?
I cant wait to build my own!
Thanks Junior
My E-mail is:
ReplyDeletebernard20001*at*hotmail.fr
Absolutely fantastic! This is exactly what I have been looking for from the DIY 3d-Printing community, and am really, truly, excitedly hoping that these kits come out!
ReplyDeleteHas anyone tried this company's resin? http://www.sunrez.com/ I just emailed them trying to find out what the cure time is, but will probably order a sample to test it in my machine. I have a teensy++ hooked to a stepper with a simple app running the motion. Garage door screw from Sears, skate board bearings and 2040 T-slots and rails. I also found a supplier of Trusheen glass coating... this makes any glass surface non stick and may make better prints. Will post my results.
ReplyDeleteI think you should consider a variation of your name for your product. Call it the "Velocity Jr." 3d printer.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI have an idea for your project. Instead of using a DLP projector as the light source, why not use an LED printer? You could move the entire printer head across your material. Depending on the printer used, you could cut your costs considerably. You will probably lose some resolution, but it would make it more accessible to more people. I am a software developer by trade and not an engineer so I have no Idea if this would work or not. Contact me at chrisrademan@gmail.com if you need any help on the software side of things.
ReplyDeleteI am sooooo giving you money for that and to buy one for myself !!!
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